Method of making shoes



J.H. POPE. METHOD OF MAKING SHOES. APPLICATION FILED SEPT- 8| I919.

Patented Aug. 9, 1921.

2 SHEETS-SHEET I.

J. H. POPE;

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 8. 1919.

: 1. $86,654. Patented Aug. 9, 19211.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

tively expensive and have been so stares Josnrn n'. rose, on HABTILTON,iviassnonnszirrs,

MACHINERY oonroaarron, or rn'rnason, new

NEW JERSEY.

ASSIGNOE T0 'UIIITED SHOE COBPORli-LTION O1 METHOD OF TEAKING- SHOES.

Patented fin '9, 1921.

Application filed September 8, 1919. Serial No. 322,524.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, Josnrrr H. Porn, acitizen of the United States, residing at Hamilton, in the county ofEssex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain Improvements inMethods of Making Shoes, of which the following description, inconnection with the accompanying era-wings, is a specification, likereference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in theseveral figures. I

This invention relates to methods of making'shoes and is hereindescribed and illustrated in its application to the manufacture of shoesof the type commonly known as moccasins, a moccasin of the typeillustrated being a foot covering of which the sole, the sides and thetoe and heel portions are formed from a single piece of material andwhich is completed by securing to the margin of the fore part an upperpiece to form a covering for the toe and instep, a further piece beingsometimes added to form a top which may be laced about theankle. Shoesof this general type have been long used by woodsmen and hunters, butbecause of the hand work required they have been relalacking inshapeliness and wearing qual ties as to limit greatly'the demandtherefor. An object of this invention is to provide a method by whichshapely and durable shoes of this kind may be made with a minimum ofmanual labor. 7

A further object of the invention is to improve the method disclosed andclaimed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,381,921 grantedJune 21, 1921, on application of John J. Heys, without sacrifice of itsutility 1 The present invention, While preserving the many importantadvantages and essential steps of the method disclosed in sait patent,presents, various practical advantages thereover, particularly withrelation to'the steps of molding the material into final shape.

In the practice of the method set forth in the above-identified patent,the final molding operation is efiected between a rigid inner form and acontractible rigid outer form or partible mold the parts of which movein predetermined paths. There is,

therefore, no conformation of the molding surfaces to the thickness ofthe leather whatever the thickness or textural charac-- teristics of thestock, while preserving all the advantages of the use of forms or moldsas described in said patent.

A distinguishing characteristic of the present method consists inapplying to a blank, prepared as to its first stages in accordance withthe method set forth in the Heys patent, a substantially uniformpressure to mold it into final shape. As herein shown a rigid innermold, which may be a last, is used and the blank, after having beengiven a preliminary vessel or pouch shape, is placed over the form anduniform pressure is applied thereto externally. This is effectedpreferably by forcing the inner form and blank sole down against ayielding and preferably elastic diaphragm'beneath which a fluid underpressure, pref erably a liquid, may be admitted. While the pressure iscontinued fluid pressure from beneath is applied which, of course, isequal in all directions and causes the diaphragm to wrap about, the formand force all portions of the blank into contact with the form.

Another distinguishing characteristics of the method consists inconfining the margin of the molded blank to the inner mold or die.Preferably this is effected by drawing loops of a filament in oppositedirections, one loop passing about the toe end of the blank near itsedge and the other loop passing about the heel end of the blank. By thismethod the blank is drawn tightly against the upper receding portions ofthe form. Preferably above the said portion is an outwardly flaringportion, the loops acting to force the upper into the angle betweenthese portions. To hold the blank in this position a draw string may bearranged in the margin of the blank before it is molded and tightenedafter the molding operation, as described, has taken place. If desired,in place ofthe draw string a string or wire may be passed tightly aroundthe molded blank in the vicinity of the'loops and fastened to hold' theblank.

are then placed upon the last, secured in assembled relation thereon andtheir lower edges sewed to the trimmed upper edge of the blank formed onthe last, the seam being preferably made by a machine.

The present method is herein set forth for the purpose of illustrationbut not by way of limitation as practised by the use of apparatusembodying novel features characteristic of the apparatus shown andclaimed in copending application Serial No.287,516, filed April 4t,1919, in the name of Louis A. Casgrain.

These and other characteristics of this novel method will appear morefullyfrom the following description when read in connection with theaccompanying drawing and will be pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawing: 7

Figure 1 is a view of the blank to be molded, the blankhaving a drawstringrun into its margin; 7

Fig. 2 is a sectional view showing the blank undergoing the preliminarymolding or breaking-down operation;

Fig. 2 is a perspective of the blank formed by the apparatus of Fig. 2;

Fig. 9 is a view similar to Fig. 3 is a sectional View showing apreliminarily formed blank placed over a lastshaped form and located.over an elastic dia- .phragm Fig; '4. is a similar sectional viewshowing the form or last being'forced against the diaphragm to press thesole portion of the blank against the bottom of the last;

Fig. 5 is a similar-sectional view showing the blank held in moldedposition against the last;

Fig. :6 is a perspective view showing the manner of drawing inthe'margin of the blank and securing it;

. Fig. 7 1s a perspectlve view showing the last with the top portionremoved and the blankheld in molded position;

Fig. '8 is aside elevation, partly insection'," showing the excess ofmaterial at the margin of the blank being trimmed away; Fig. 8 showingthe part of'tlielast on which the moldingv is done with the top portionsecured thereto 'to complete the last; and

last and sewed to the molded bottom and side portions by a singlecontinuous seam.

Inthe practice of the method ofthis in vention a blank a'is prepared oftheshape shown in Fig. 1. Through the margin of this blank a drawstringb may be run as shown. The blank a. is then given a preliminaryvessel or pouch shape, as shown in Fig. 2, the blank being laid overan-opening 2 in a table 4, its marginal'portions being confined by ayielding pressure plate 6 and its central portion being presse'd throughthe opening 2 by a descending plunger 8.v The lank is thus formedinto anarrow vessel or pouch having approximately the length of the shoe tobeformed and a portion thereof given approximately the peripheral lengthwhich it is to have in the finished shoe. The

vessel blank designated as a is then placed over a last or form 10having the shape of the bottom, side and end portions of the shoe to bemade.

The top of the last 10 is flat and there is 'secured to its top a piece14 which has the contour of the top of the last and has an outwardlyflaring edge face '16. The blank to is then assembled on the last 10, 14and placed on a rubber diaphragm 18 which is phragm stretching andsmoothing out the material covering the last bottom. This.

movementmay be effected by pressing upon the last a foot piece 26actuated from-any suitable source ofpowern Liquid under pressureisadmitted to'the'tank 22, causing the diaphragm 18 to assume the formshown in Fig. 5 and to wrap the side and end portions of the blank aboutthe last 10'and press them against the sides and ends of the last. 7 Themargin of the molded upper-"is then subjected to the actionof wire (Fig.6) which are drawn against theend portions of the blank from oppositedirections. As shown, the ends of theloops are held clamped incross'pieces 34,35 and are moved in opposite directions by turning thumbnuts 36, 3'? on threaded rods 38,: 39

ing through holes in brackets 4O,'; 4l1 connected to the tank 22. Themargin o'f the blank having been drawn in against the re ceding upperportion of-t-he last lOand'int-o loopsBO, I 32 r 'r2o 7. connected tothe cross pieces 34,-35 andpass,

drawn uptight a'ndfastened, Ifdesired,

inplace of the draw string, a cord or wire maybe passed around the format'this also the central portion, and

stantially 7 all portions 'of the blank tion consists in trimming ofithe excess of material about the. periphery of the blank. This ispreferably done by employing the flat top of the form 10 as a guide fora trimming knife by which the margin is removed, preferably at a slightbut uniform distance above the plane of the top of the form 10. Theblank thus trimmed is shown at the right of Fig. 8 and designated as aA. top portion 50 is now secured to the top face of the form 10 to formthe upper portion of a complete last. The other portions of the shoe,for example, the toe portion 0 and the tOp portion 0?, are assembled onthe last with their lower edges in proper relation to the top edge ofthe blank (1 and are secured to the last temporarily by any suitablemeans. The meeting edges of the parts a o and d are then united by asingle continuous seam e which is preferably sewed on a machine.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim asnew and desire tosecure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises molding asubstantially. flat blank to produce a blank having smooth unwrinkledsides upstanding from then subjecting subthus formed to equal moldingpressure to cause them to assume the contour of the bottom and sides ofa finishedshoe part. I

2.- That improvement 'n the art of making shoes which comprises forcinga substantially flat blank through an opening of less area than thebottom of the shoe to produce a blank having substantially straightsides upstanding from the central portion, and then subjecting the blankthus formed to uniform molding pressure to cause the sides to assume thecontour of a finished shoe part. 3. That improvement in the art ofmaking shoes which comprises confining the marginal portion of asubstantially flat blank, effecting relative movement of the confinedand the unconfined portions in a direction transverse to the plane ofsaid confined portion to shape the blank with upturned sides. permittingthe marginal portion of the blank to be withdrawn from its confinedposition by such relative movement and to assume upturned relation tothe central portion of the blank, opposing to one face of cause it toassume the a is necessarily the blank a rigid die having the contourwhich it is desired the molded blank shall assume, and then subjectingall portions of the other face of the blank to substantially equalpressure.

4. The method of making shoes which comprises preliminarily molding ablank to shape of a vessel or pouch having a smaller dimension than thecorresponding dimension of the completed shoe, opposing to one face ofthe blank a die having the contour to which it is desired to mold theblank, and subjecting the opposite face of the blank to substantiallyequal pressure to cause it to assume the shape of the die.

5. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprisespreliminarily mold ing a blank to cause it to assume an elongated vesselshape of smaller dimensions than those of the completed article to beformed therefrom, placing the blank upon a last-shaped form, and thensubjecting the exterior of the blank to substantially uniform pressure.

6. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises molding asubstantially flat blank to produce a blank having smooth unwrinkledsides upstanding from the central portion, and subjecting both faces ofthe blank to molding pressure between continuous surfaces.

7. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises forcing asubstantially fiat blank through an opening of less area than the bottomof the shoe to produce a blank having substantially straight sidesupstanding from the central portion, and

then subjecting one face of the blank to molding pressure appliedthrough a yielding medium while supporting the opposite face of theblank rigidly. V

8. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists insubjecting a blank to a breaking down operation to reduce the peripheralextent of the blank without the formation of wrinkles, then subjectingthe blank thus formed, no part of which has its final form, to furthershaping operations to produce a shoe part comprising a sole, side andend portions of the contour of a finished shoe, said operationsincluding the application of substantially uniform pressure to onesurface of the side and end portions of the blank while opposing to theother face a rigid shoe-shaped form.

9. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises firstmolding a blank into a shape approximating that of the desired shoepart, opposing to all portions of one surface of the blank except itsmarginal portion a rigid form to which the blank is to be molded,subjecting the other face of the blank to uniform pressure to cause itto assume the shape of the form, binding the marginal portion of theblank to prevent substantial change of form of the-blank .ing shoeswhich comprises preparing a form' having the shape of the bottom, sidesand when the molding pressure is-relieved,-and p I -upon the top portiontheparts of 'the'shoe then removing the molding pressure. I

10. That improvement in the art ofmaking shoes which consists insubjecting a blank to a breaking'down operation to reduce the peripheralextent of the blank without the formation of Wrinkles, then subjectingthe blank thus formed, no part of Which has its final form, to furthershaping operations to produce a shoe part comprising a sole, side andLend portions of the contour of a finished shoe, sald operatlonsincluding the application of substantially uniform pressure to onesurface of the blank ll'vThat improvement in the art of makendsofa shoeand anoutwardly and up wardly flaring face above thesidesymolding ablank to the form, securing the blank inmolded position by a bindingfilament ar-" ranged below said flaring face, removing the 'portion ofthe blank thus'exposed, placing flaring face, trimming away the marginalon the form a top portion corresponding to the shape ofthe'last,'placing upon the top portion the parts of the shoe required toing shoeswhich comprises preparing a form having the shape of thebottom, sides and finish the shoe, and attaching said partsto the moldedblank by-a seam.

v12. That improvement in theart of makends of a shoe and having a flattop, attaching to the top a member having an outwardly and upwardlyflaring face,' mojlding a, blank to the form, securing the blank inmolded position by a binding filament arranged adjacent to the flattopof the form,"

- removing the top part of the form, trimming away the marginal portion"of the b-lankthus exposed while employing the top a I removed portionby a top portion corresponding to the shapeof-the last, placing requiredto finish the shoe, and attaching said parts to themold'ed blank byaseam. 13. That improvement in the art'of making shoes which comprisespreparing-a form having top and bottom parts, the "bottom parthavingl'substantially the shape of a"- -last and the top part having ashape different'from the top portion'of a last, shaping a blank to thebottom portion of the last, binding the blank to the form along lines,adjacent to the'linejof separation of the top and bottom parts, removingthe toppart, trimming the margin of the blank,replacing the 'top part bya part having a shape to constitute, with the bottom part, the shape ofa a complete last, assembling on the last shoe parts necessary tocomplete the shoe, and uniting by a seam said parts to the blank shapedon the bottom part;

f 14. That improvement" in the artof making shoes which comprisespreparing a form "having the' shape of the bottomysides and "ends of ashoeand having a removable't'op "portion, molding a blank to theform,binding the blank' to the'for'ni alongf a line adj aremoving the topportion of the form,'trimmingzthef edge of the blank to a contourcorrespondingto that ofthe to-p of the bottom portion of the form,replacing the top por- 'tion by a topportionhaving'the shape of the topportion of a last, placing upon the top-portion thejpartsT-of the shoerequired to complete the' shoepand attaching said parts to the moldedblank by a seam.

cent to the line of se aration of the form,

In testimonywhereo'f I have signed my 7 name to this specification.

"JOSEPH HQPOPE.

